Steak Frites: Triple Encore those Fries!


Fav: Triple cooked Duck Fat Fries
5/10 plates emptied!
[Written by Carly]



Restaurant Week is in town again! Carly was ready for bed that night and skimming facebook when she knew about the news that dining week is back! The first thing she wanted to book ahead was the ones with roaring acclaims and wave of positive reviews (It broke Carly’s heart when she knew that Harlan Comfort has closed down and FoFo and Blue Butcher were both fully booked already on the first day! Yikes!) Steak Frites by Butchers Club has been sitting on top of the to-try list for so long, Carly was so excited to see that they have joined Restaurant week for the first time and immediately booked ahead without any further due.




Steak Frites as a dine-in yet cozy laidback restaurant recently opened by the aggressive Butchers Club owners, having them right next to PMQ, competition is fierce with Wilbur Burgers in PMQ, La Vache on Peel Street, and many other hot spots to hit before visiting Steak Frites while you can already grab a bite of their juicy dry-aged meat at Butchers Club Burgers – fairly new joint near the SOHO escalator closer to LKF. Restaurant week lunch menu consists of salad, steak sandwich, dessert – HKD198 service change included. Pretty reasonable priced compared to their regular lunch menu of HKD350 – salad and dry-aged 8oz steak. 


每次經過Little Bao, PMQ, Yardbird,都總會看見Butchers Club Steak Frites的新招牌,行上PMQ絕對不容易,想食好野點都要行多兩步。那天,Carly已經上床準備睡覺,但還在上臉書,看見Restaurant Week回來了,二話不說,立刻查看有沒有心水餐廳有平靚正的午餐優惠。FoFo 與Blue Butcher迅速fully booked。好吧,Steak Frites一直在Carly的to-try list上面,但平時午餐要HKD350就沒太多動力去試。Restaurant Week HKD198(連加一服務費)有沙律,牛排/龍蝦三文治,連甜品,Carly與友人行到有點喘氣都是值得的。Butchers Club的burgers早期已經試過,漢堡的質量尚算可以,肉味夠,但煎出來則有很多肉汁,有些卻很乾。鴨油炸薯塊亦很咸。今次再來就能夠一試他們的dry-aged steak,是不是特別美味,與眾不同?


行了一大條斜路,再上了鋪頭入面的幾級樓梯,終於到了!坐了一整個午飯時間,都只是得三、四檯客,想必是地點太「隔涉」,附近又太多選擇,在SOHO區立足不單是食物要好吃,Butchers Club一定要想辦法吸引多點人流,平時的HKD350,雖然有8安士的牛排吃,但仍是相對貴了點,要有一定程度的消費能力,才會三百幾元午膳食一頓飯呢。


【Wedge Salad |with cherry tomatoes, maple-glazed bacon and mustard cream dressing】
The server greeted us at our table and introduced herself as the first step to make the customers happy and offered the choice of whether we wanted to have the salad to go with blue cheese cream or mustard cream dressing. Carly opted for the mustard cream dressing, the wedge salad was half of fresh cabbage sliced, layered yet maintaining the shape of the original cabbage, surprisingly, you will still find layers of sauce mixed in between so the dressing was not just dripped over. Cherry tomatoes, mini in size, zippy fresh and naturally mild sweet. Maple-glazed bacon was cooked till the fat turned golden hard and it was a bit too sweet for bacon seasoning. Gladly, the mustard cream dressing was obviously homemade with the right thick and creamy dripping form, zesty and citrusy as Carly found the sauce too rich for a salad yet finished it off within just minutes. 


【椰菜沙律| 車厘茄,楓蜜煙肉,芥末醬汁】
大半個椰菜放在眼前,這沙律的份量很令人滿意。侍應貼心的提議,如果不喜歡藍紋芝士的重口味,可以選擇較多人接受的芥末醬汁。Carly不是芝士的愛好者,所以選擇了後者。細細粒,新鮮的車厘茄被切開一半,吃著的感覺很清新,不用多加調味醬汁,已經很好吃。楓蜜煎煮過的煙肉是北美一種慣常煙肉的吃法,目的就是要把煙肉本身的脂肪都煮至收乾金黃香脆的效果,甜甜的楓蜜能夠中和煙肉本身有點過份咸的特質。這沙律的煙肉沒有煮得香脆,厚身是不錯的,吃上口仍有一定的口感,只是有點過甜,味道不太自然。芥末醬汁意外地帶點微酸,不是來自檸檬的酸度,是白醋那不較突出的酸。每一層菜葉中間都沾滿醬汁,絕不是「求求其其淋幾滴就完場」,新鮮的沙律菜吃上口很清脆,絕對是一道不俗的開胃前菜!
 

【Dry-Aged Steak Sandwich】
Wonder why dry-aged beef is much more expensive than regular steak? The process of dry-aging is expensive and time consuming as at least 15% of the fat will be lost, decreasing in its volume of size, what was enhanced is the extra buttery texture and rich flavor. As the beef is hung on coolers to be dried off for at least 30 days, moisture is lost yet the process softens the meat. Butchers Club is renowned for their dry-aged beef as they have their own labelled cows imported from New South Wales in Australia. Carly was a bit disappointed as the steak patty was flat, lacked meat juice and softness. Some parts were too chewy and tough as you cannot even chew it apart, knife was easier yet still, Carly gave up and wondered if their dry-aged steak was going to do any better. She glanced over the table next to her as some gentlemen ordered that, the steak did not look juicy nor did she see any meat juice left on the wooden board. Once again, it was up to Carly’s attention that Butchers Club has to work on the consistency of their food when they already have such fine quality streamline of ingredients and produces. Same with their burger stalls, it's almost like you go in and being left with an uneasy feeling of not sure if you are going to get ripped off – over HKD100 for a burger or simply stuffed with happy comfort food – satisfied with Double Happiness. The bun was fluffy enough just that it could have been better if it was toasted/grilled as well.



【牛排三文治】
牛扒是薄薄的一塊夾在兩片白麵包中間,端上桌的時候,誠然有點失望,因為沒看見牛扒很大塊或多汁,所以與原本期望的有一點落差。兩塊白麵包做得鬆軟,不厚實,口感實屬不錯。中間夾著少許用砂糖煮過的洋蔥絲,甜甜脆脆的,沒有煮過久。薄片牛肉塊太有「嚼頭」,用牙齒也近乎嚼不開的牛肉,煮過時,所以肉汁都像被精蒸發掉,幸好還有點點的牛肉香。味道不怎樣出色,最糟糕是那塊咬不開的牛扒,夾在麵包中間,簡直讓食客增加苦惱。難道我要用刀叉吃漢堡包嗎?


【Triple-cooked Duck Fat Fries】
Carly is not going to lie but she has a strong liking for both salty and oily food. The duck fat fries were triple deep fried in duck fat, potatoes absorbed all the fatty goodness and natural savory flavor from the fat itself. Triple-cooked made the potatoes heavenly mushy and crispy on the crust – it was a bit greasy but what good does it do if comfort food was not fatty comforting? If only they could just skip the huge flakes of sea salt sprinkled onto those fries (wedges to be exact), it would have saved Carly’s kidney..

【鴨油炸薯塊】
好吃!因為炸薯塊炸得金黃香脆,在鴨油中前後炸三次的效果,就是厚厚的薯塊頗單熱辣辣且綿綿軟身,油脂中的天然咸味完全吸收在薯塊當中。每一口的薯仔都是被炸至極致的程度,雖然少許偏咸(倘若他們不額外撒鹽就更好了)和油膩,但如果炸物不是煮成這樣,又點會好吃呢?


【Chocolate Cheesecake】
Overly sweet for much sugar was added to the dark chocolate cake, with a hint of mild bitterness, it was not too pleasant overall to blend it with cream cheese so chocolate cheesecake was not only unsatisfying, yet also too heavy after an oily meal of fries and steak sandwich. Plus the cheesecake was too dense and thick, it was still stuck to the fork, proven that the cake was not well-beaten till it turns smooth enough. The tart crust was the only thing that Carly could finish since it was not too sweet and average crumbly. 

【朱古力芝士蛋糕】
真心甜,是Carly對這朱古力芝士蛋糕的評價。就連平時對甜度有較高容忍度的Carly,吃了幾口仍是放棄了。最糟糕的是,蛋糕質感太厚實,不夠較滑,味道太甜卻又帶點微苦與芝士的微酸。Carly最後選擇默默地吃掉味道還可以的餅底,不是特別鬆脆,有點腍身。始終不能對一間牛扒專門店的甜品太高要求吧。


All in all, the HKD198 restaurant week was not bad even though the food was not particularly impressive. Friendly and attentive staff, location-wise was a bit remote even for Central white collars, the place was not crowded at all due to its location and regular lunch set deal as one will have to pay up to HKD350 for a steak lunch. The consistency of food quality from Butchers Club chain store remains in question again, quality ingredients is only going to score some high notes to one level, without excellent cooking techniques, customers will not be looking to turn their heads around with so many better choices for burgers, steaks or simply comfort food out there.

地點隔涉,閒日的午膳時間只有小貓三,四檯,服務態度亦很友善。港幣198(連加一)在SOHO區午餐水平來說還可以,偏貴。中環蘭貴坊還有很多其他選擇,知道Butchers Club自家dry-age的牛扒水準一直不夠穩定,去過Butchers Club Burgers的人就會知,三個漢堡總會有一個,或兩個(睇彩數)塊牛肉乾到喊。明顯地就是煮法的水準不夠平均。Steak Frites平常的午市套餐是港幣350一個人,牛扒本身質素一定不俗,但值不值就見人見智吧。





Steak Frites by Butchers Club
G/F, 52-56 Staunton Street, Central
中環士丹頓街 52-56 號地舖
2858 9800



*Easier to find this once you locate PMQ 先找PMQ元創坊,Steak Frites就容易找很多

*Closed on Mondays 逢星期一關門

*If you aren’t too sure if you would like to pay for an expensive meal for beef, try out their Butcher Club Burgers first! 可以先試Butchers Club旗下的連鎖分店 Butchers Club Burgers,看看自己愛好與否