Favs：Smelt Fish Tempura 青檸味銀白魚天婦羅配泡菜蛋黃醬, Pad Thai with Black Ink Noodles泰式炒墨魚麵, Black Cod with Green Curry Rice 芭蕉葉香焗鱈魚伴綠咖哩白飯, Coconut Shaved Ice 鮮椰皇刨冰加椰味烈酒, Banana Crème Brûlée 黑糖火焰香蕉燉蛋配深度烘培咖啡
6.5/10 plates emptied!
[Written by Carly in English, Gobay in Chinese]
Glasshouse, tucked away in the rooftop corner of IFC. With breezes of wind sweeps by and a radiant array of sunshine while facing the Victoria harbor front towards Tsim Sham Tsui East, it is easily a favorite for anyone who longs for a cozy drink on a hectic day and a bite of contemporary fusion cuisine. The laidback yet beaming ambience makes up for one fine dining experience as staffs were welcoming and were considerably knowledgeable in their own menu. Glasshouse has been featured in some local and internal food journals for their modern interior decor and fresh approach to traditional Asian dishes – how should we put this, a bit of hit and miss? Gimmicky enough yet was it more style over substance?
Glasshouse的室內外風格，十分適合它身處的位置——IFC旁邊，直面尖東海景。再加上落地玻璃和開放式廚房，環境令人非常放鬆和愉悅。餐廳經理和侍應對餐牌的認識和服務態度都屬於中等偏上水準，至少會令人覺得10%或15%的服務費是給的公道的——我們可能都感受過當完全無服務的餐廳要收取加一服務費時我們心中那種出離的憤怒，無奈漸漸演變成「唉，隨便啦…」的心理變化，故當遇到值得服務費時就會有種「恩人啊」的感覺——其實是當下餐飲服務業的悲哀……
*中文菜名乃由吉碟幫翻譯，並非餐廳提供
Small Bites
【Potato croquettes with sea weed and
scallop with sweet & sour mango sauce 海苔帶子可樂餅配甜酸芒果醬 | HKD58 】
Potato croquettes with sweet and sour mango sauce combo, instead of using an Italian herb sauce (basil, parsleys) or mayo (goes great with any kind of deep fried food). Sweet and sour balanced well with the deep fried appetizer. Croquettes were mushy inside and not hot or golden crunchy enough. The seaweed on top overpowered the scallops a bit. Gobay suggested that it may be even better to use mango sauce as the filling so the idea of fusion dishes can be further elaborated by blending in cooking methods rather than just presenting it as a dipping sauce.
芒果醬是在底部泡著可樂餅，很容易就讓底部的皮軟掉，甜酸的味道中和了一些油炸的膩，感覺很健康新奇的吃法，只是海苔的味道有點重，把帶子的鮮甜蓋過了。這道菜讓人想起日本一部飲食漫畫《中華一番》裡主角曾做過的一道龍蝦卷，它的形態像放大版可樂餅，餡料是用腐竹皮把醬汁都包在卷裡再拿去炸，所以一咬，海鮮和濃汁都融在嘴裡，但外皮仍是非常鬆脆。——這個創意也許可以放在這道菜式中一試，把芒果醬「儲存」在可樂餅裡，至於怎麼做…有待探索！
【Crispy fries with black truffle mayo 脆炸薯條配黑松露蛋黃醬 | HKD68】
Fries again! The gang never misses a chance to try fries with black truffle mayo at any restaurants just because Carly is a die-hard fan of both potatoes and truffle. Presented in a silver frying basket, it gives off an impression of freshly fried from the oil. Relatively thin cuts of America dark brown (probably russet) potatoes with skin attached giving off a very pleasant starchy potato aroma and flavor. Mayo is the creamy thick kind of type blended with overpowering black truffle paste, spread off an appetizing truffle fragrance. If only the fries were a bit thicker, Carly would be happier to have mushy potatoes to go with that creamy scrumptious sauce… But who would ever complain about truffle mayo anyway? We used to only have ketchup to go with fries.
這個非常推薦嘗試。薯條用的是臉連皮的美國大棕皮薯仔，所以薯條的薯味很突出。最讓人激賞的是那個黑松露蛋黃醬，黑松露的味道非常 「搶」，但和蛋黃醬的酸乳味搭配得很好，是放進嘴裡就能讓口腔不自主分泌唾液的節奏。
【Lime tempura smelt fish with spicy kimchi mayonnaise 青檸味銀白魚天婦羅配泡菜蛋黃醬| HKD68】
Smelt fish, tiny type of fish, found in Atlantic and Pacific Oceans – quite addictive as it gives a crunchy crisp on the palate and supposedly this cucumber-like taste for its marine freshness. Both tempura mix and fish were lightly seasoned, and because the smelt fish were fresh, it is solid firm inside and crispy as you bite into the skin. “Lime”, “spicy”, “kimchi” were all nowhere to be found, yet even the slightness hint of lime sourness would complement this finger-linking appetizer really well already. If only the kimchi gave a stronger spice kick, more character would have been presented upfront.
魚肉類天婦羅的特色就是粉漿特別薄，有時候甚至魚的兩面是一面有粉漿而另一面沒有。這裡的銀白魚炸得相當好，魚本身就很新鮮，內層魚肉很結實，外層很脆，可惜名字裡的「青檸」沒有在粉漿中體現出來，但可以理解，因為油炸食品中加入的微量檸酸都很容易被掩蓋。至於泡菜蛋黃醬，沒嘗出有泡菜的味道，而酥炸銀白魚，就簡單地擠點檸檬汁已經很好吃了，可以把蛋黃醬省略——但名字確實很引人好奇，可以一試。銀白魚(又稱「胡瓜魚」)，部分人會和「銀魚」混淆，而銀魚是港人熟悉的 「白飯魚」，是更為珍稀的品種。銀白魚出名在魚肉隱約有股小黃瓜的清香，看看有沒有食客能體會得出來 。
Bigger Bites
【Rice paper
and red beetroot roll with avocado, smoked salmon, prawn, herbs and white balsamic dressing 海鮮紅菜頭米紙卷配泰式白酒醋汁 | HKD108】
Appealing colorful wrap of purplish red beetroot slices wrapped with transparent reddish rice paper, the mix of fresh healthy ingredients gave off a vibrant look yet on the palate, the whole combination was not too flavorsome. Especially when smoked salmon was considered too heavy to go with prawns in the first place, and the sense of beetroot, avocado fresh ingredients were too subtle to be noticed. Admired the effort put in the green approach for a Vietnamese modern rice paper roll, yet it was not delicious enough to have justify an appetizer charging over HKD100 for just 6 or 7 bites. Thai style of balsamic dressing is made up from mixing white vinegar and spices, pungent sourness with a mild sweetness, did snatch some attention from the already relatively bland roll – fish sauce would still be the top favorite sauce to go with Viet/Thai appetizers, specifically their light fish taste will greatly enhance the meat, seafood. Too gimmicky? We all agreed.
很新鮮的菜式，米紙捲是紅色的，大概因為加了紅菜頭磨的汁。牛油果茸，煙三文魚片和鮮蝦肉湊在一起的感覺有點奇怪，似乎煙三文魚就是那個不和諧的第三者，但偏偏煙熏的味道濃烈，讓人無法忽略。加了紅菜頭汁的米紙捲還保持了越南米紙捲的那種煙韌軟熟的口感，可惜厚了些。“White Balsamic dressing”——白酒醋汁加點辣，終究是比不過地道的魚露漿，白酒醋有點過於「搞作」了。“Balsamico”一向是義大利很出名的用葡萄釀醋的代名詞，一般是紅酒醋比白酒醋更流行一些，因為更適合陳年(之前也提及義大利是一個特別鍾情於 「把食物放很久」的國家)。Balsamic vinegar比一般的醋酸性低，偏甜，而且由於普遍都有被存於木桶陳年的緣故，會有一些複雜的香味，比如果仁香，木香和煙熏香等等。可是Gobay還是覺得，海鮮米紙卷，還是配魚露漿的餘韻最悠遠——魚露、椰汁、米醋、白糖和新鮮青檸汁的混合物，它的味道層次不是言語可以形容的。
Main Bites
【Wagyu beef
burger with black truffle mayonnaise and homemade pickles
和牛漢堡配黑松露蛋黃醬 | HKD138】
What a luxurious enjoyment to have wagyu beef for burger patties! The Gang has tried out a lot of local burger joints and there is often a reason why Angus or prime grade of beef will be used for patties instead of wagyu beef. Wagyu beef is prominent for being beautifully marbled, nice and evenly distributed fat, relatively soft and oily in texture, less strong and rich of beef flavor in its nature. In Carly’s word, lacks the manly and edgy character of beef in general (She’s a wagyu beef lover though!). Glasshouse beef patty was too soft, the beef was minced by machine instead of grinded by hand, so it lacked any kind of chewiness on the palate – not ideal. Plus, the relatively subtle beef meaty taste were minced into thin air after grinding, hmmm, it is utterly important for chefs to understand why are certain ingredients cooked that way or presented in such form – wagyu beef could be the shining rock star if grilled on pan, with mildly seasoning yet in a burger – it was put on the wrong stage with an anticipating crowd. Homemade chopped carrots and pickles on the side were tangy refreshing and zippy, but still, where is my delicious juicy burger?
和牛用作漢堡扒，也是很奢侈的節奏啊！可惜和牛本身偏軟，油性大源於它的脂肪分佈比較均勻，而且吃得出肉餅是用機器絞碎的不是人手刀剁的，所以一咬就整個在嘴裡軟塌了，口感很不可人。另外，和牛的牛肉味本身就不重，這麼一絞碎了之後就更消失殆盡，更不用說層次豐富的黑松露蛋黃醬香，牛肉的味道在這麼雙重 「打擊」下，我們只能徒留腦海中對和牛固有的味覺幻想，舌尖上是無福消受了… 但大家都很讚賞自家製的醃菜，有蘿蔔和酸瓜，味道很清新口感很爽脆，而且顏色鮮豔得很「和風」。
【My "Pad Thai" with black ink noodles with barbeque pork, tofu, free range hen egg and soy bean sprouts 泰式炒墨魚麵 | HKD128】
Eye-catching black ink noodles swirled with traditional mix of dried tofu, eggs, bean sprouts and pork. Tasted scrumptious for its mildly sweetened sauce just dripping, clinging onto the slightly soft (close to al dente) squid noodles, Gobay preferred this to be cooked in a western way rather than “Thai” way – stylish and successful dish even though the sauce did overwhelm the natural seafood tastes of ink noodles.
當日我們看到很多人都點了這道墨魚麵，所以忍不住也試了一下。老實說，如果不是用泰式“Pad Thai”的炒法，而是用地道西式煮意粉的方法，會更好吃，但是味道還是可以的，微甜而且墨魚麵的口感很爽，只是把墨魚汁的鮮味遮蓋住了，因為泰式做法味道太濃。
【Black cod baked in banana leaf with green curry and rice | 芭蕉葉香焗鱈魚伴綠咖哩白飯HKD198】
Black cod! Not commonly found in Asian restaurants and surprisingly, another spotlight of the meal for its angelic juicy, velvety firm cod fish meat satisfying one’s palate as it was still hot after a round of picture taking. Breathtaking rich, flavorsome green curry with its lingering spice on the palate, but not burning unbearable, it was a pleasant spicy and herbs aroma even for diners like Lyoe who has minimum spicy tolerance. With the pan fried cod fish, scoop of Jasmine rice, and curry placed on a banana leave, the accustomed Asian dish was swiftly dressed in fashion, draped in style.
眾人一致稱讚這道菜，鱈魚的口感多汁鮮嫩，更讓人稱道的是綠咖哩，是很有後勁的辣度，但不會停留在舌頭上讓人難受，很清爽的熱度而且微甜。椰汁的分量放得剛好所以口感不稠，淋在米飯上吃非常香。用芭蕉葉烹調食物在東南亞十分流行，跟荷葉和竹筒一樣，芭蕉葉有種獨特清香，而且葉身較厚，所以承載食物烹煮燜焗都很合適，外觀也十分討喜。
Desserts
【Fresh coconut, shaved ice and a touch of Malibu liquor | 鮮椰皇刨冰加椰味烈酒HKD88】
Mini kind of coconut, more condensed and sweetly rich coconut taste with fine shaved ice were served in the coconut itself. Carly was so focused in scooping onto chewy fresh coconut meat that she almost neglected the conversation that was going on. Highlight was definitely the touch of Malibu liquor blended in the icy treat – gives a right alcoholic rush for anyone that needs an excuse for a break on a busy work day. The Gang recommends this as it is relatively hard to find places that can mimic the fresh Thailand authentic desserts.
椰皇和大隻的椰青不同，它很小巧玲瓏，殼身很薄但很堅硬，內裡的椰汁更甜更爽口，椰子味卻會相對清淡，但椰殼壁的乳白膠狀椰肉非常柔軟，口感像是煙韌的果凍。用椰肉椰汁做成的冰沙加入了少許的Malibu椰味烈酒——就是在酒吧常見的那個純白色酒瓶很搶眼的甜烈酒，所以冰沙有很香濃的椰子味，這個推薦嘗試，在香港的餐廳很難得吃到這種泰國本土的椰子冰味道。
【Moscovado sugar banana crème brûlée with dark coffee |
黑糖火焰香蕉燉蛋配深度烘培咖啡 HKD88】
Moscovado is a type of refined brown sugar with a relatively strong molasses content and flavor, very dark brown and stickier in nature. You may not know that this is a British specialty sugar – the darker the color, the stronger the flavor. Very eye-catching dessert as sliced bananas were laid on top of the thin crème brûlée, heavily coated with dark brown sugar, almost glassy, which looked sweet enough already. The flaming of the dark sugar coating got everyone excited at the table yet did not create a very crispy caramelized crunch which Carly was expecting – so the flaming was more just for show, plus that watery liquid custard, which was indeed very sweet. Luckily, the dark coffee (tasted more like espresso for its extremely dark color) toned down the over-sugary treat yet was not the most pleasing on the palate as it lacked a blend of different aromas – more of a case, just pure sweet. Carly would have opted for a simple vanilla panna cotta or earl grey crème brûlée instead.
Moscovado sugar其實就是Muscovado sugar, 是經過最少化學加工的蔗糖，所以甜味最天然。上桌的時候侍應「點了一把火」，這樣表面的黑糖就形成平常我們熟知的法式焦糖燉蛋面上的糖薄脆，一勺子下去能聽到碎裂的聲音。如果不加dark coffee——用深度烘培咖啡豆做出來的濃咖啡，則非常的甜膩，加了咖啡以後，它的苦澀巧妙地平衡了所有“太過”的甜味。突發奇想，不知道用Plantain取代香蕉會怎樣，Plantain的甘澀對它的減膩會有幫助嗎?
Downright gimmicky, without too many surprises for the food flavor-wise, presentations were creative, colorful and classy. On average of HKD260 spending per person for lunch, not going to lie, don’t think the portions here filled the guy’s stomach much. Timeless dishes draped in fashion, is that your thing or no? Depends on whether you love fancy glam at one’s dining experience.
差不多二百六十元一位的消費，就算在中環區也不能說得上是太化算。但就環境來說，IFC落地玻璃望尖東的海景，實在是令人感到心曠神怡。如果我地一班打工仔，可以請半日假，閒來吃個甜品，飲杯cocktail，那就相當不錯。
Gobay’s Food Knowledge Corner – The Mysterious Dark Squid Black Ink:
Squid ink has been garnering attention and favoritism in Western culinary culture all along, especially in Italian and Spanish cuisines. This flexible and diversified ingredient can be used in making pasta, paella/risotto or cooked into rich sauces. Squid ink has a unique tone of mild acidity blended with its oceanic saltines, charming character wreathed in that black mysterious swirl. Interestingly, its nutritional value is often neglected and left unnoticeable. One of the most celebrated doctors and scientists in Ming Dynasty of China has listed squid ink as one of the most effective cures to women anemia. Researches in Japan claimed that squid ink can effectively prevent or fight cancer, adding another enigmatic factor to the black sauce. One thing to note for squid ink: even if you store them away in refrigerators, the precious sauce still cannot be kept for too long before it goes bad.
Gobay話你知——細說墨魚汁
墨魚汁一直是西餐的寵兒，特別是義大利菜和西班牙菜，比如煮意粉、醬汁、海鮮飯等等。墨魚汁有種特別的鹹味和微酸，加上它的黑色很耐人尋味，所以一向很受食客追捧。但一般人不太了解的，是它的營養性非常高。中國古代名醫李時珍稱其為「血分藥」，是治療婦女貧血的良藥。日本也有研究表明墨魚汁其實是有抗癌作用的。聞說墨魚汁是有時間鮮度，一出墨囊10分鐘以內最好就烹煮加工，這樣才能保存鮮味。
Glasshouse
Shop 4009, Level 4, IFC mall, 1Harbour View Street, Central
中環港景街1號國際金融中心商場 4樓 4009號舖
* Calling for booking is nearly impossible, recommend to e-mail one week in advance建議一星期前訂位
* Relatively small portions, better for sharing份量屬於輕食型
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